Method of and means for improving the armhole construction of a garment

ABSTRACT

A man&#39;&#39;s coat of (say) size 40 has a 40 inch horizontal breastline. The pattern for each (right and left) front panel of that coat has, at its upper rear corner, a triangular section, the sides edges of which extend upwardly from the breastline and correspond to the respective cut edges of the upwardly curved lower rear portion of the armhole and the corresponding portion of the rear side margin of the panel. The apex of the triangular section is flat, being characterized by a short top extending horizontally about one-fourth of an inch from one side edge of the triangular section to the other. The height of the triangular section from the breastline up to its flat top, which is actually equal to one-sixteenth of the breastline, is designated by tailors as &#39;&#39;&#39;&#39;1/8th of the breastline.&#39;&#39;&#39;&#39; Thus, in coat sizes 38, 40, and 42 inches, the &#39;&#39;&#39;&#39;triangular&#39;&#39;&#39;&#39; section approximates 2 1/4 inches, 2 1/2 inches and 2- 3/4 inches, respectively. A man&#39;&#39;s coat conventionally made from that pattern tends, when worn, to pull across the back between the lower halves of the armhole seams when the arms are outstretched and then crossed. This objectionable pull is substantially reduced (if not completely eliminated) by substantially increasing the height of the triangular section to a value, which tailors would recognize as &#39;&#39;&#39;&#39;one-fourth inch of the breastline&#39;&#39;&#39;&#39; minus 1/2 inch more or less. In coat sizes 38, 40 and 42 inches, the increase appriximates 2 inches, hence, the height of the section in the sizes mentioned approximates 4 1/4 , 4 1/2 , and 4- 3/4 inches, respectively. These values represent increases of about 188 percent, 180 percent, and 173 percent of the conventional heights in the sizes mentioned. Hereafter, the expressions &#39;&#39;&#39;&#39;one-eighth BL,&#39;&#39;&#39;&#39; &#39;&#39;&#39;&#39;one-fourth BL, &#39;&#39;&#39;&#39; etc., will be used to designate dimensions actually equal respectively to 1/16th of the breastline dimension, one-eighth of the breastline dimension, etc.

United States Patent [191 Gearhart [111 3,815,154 1 June 11, 1974 METHODOF AND MEANS FOR IMPROVING THE ARMHOLE CONSTRUCTION OF A GARMENT [76]Inventor: George E. Gearhart, 1924 Goldsmith Ln., Apt. No. 22,Louisville, Ky. 40218 [22] Filed: Dec. 7, 1972 [21] Appl. NoL: 312,886

[52] US. Cl. 2/93, 2/108, 2/243 B [51] Int. Cl A4ld 27/10 [58] Field ofSearch 2/85, 90, 93, 96, 97, 105,

[56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 266,137 10/1882 Groves 2/931,324,987 12/1919 Svenson 2/93 2,133,193 10/1938 Gemignani 2/932,522,356 9/1950 Firestone 2/93 X 3,066,418 12/1962 Terry et a1. 2/115 XFOREIGN PATENTS OR APPLICATIONS 302,451 12/1928 Great Britain 2/931,212,635 3/1960 France 2/93 Primary ExaminerWerner H. SchroederAttorney, Agent, or Firm-Arthur F. Robert panel of that coat has, at itsupper rear corner, a triangular section, the sides edges of which extendupwardly from the breastline and correspond to the respective cut edgesof the upwardly curved lower rear portion of the armhole and thecorresponding portion of the rear side margin of the panel. The apex ofthe triangular section is flat, being characterized by a short topextending horizontally about one-fourth of an inch from one side edge ofthe triangular section to the other. The height of the triangularsection from the breastline up to its flat top, which is actually equalto one-sixteenth of the breastline, is designated by tailors as l/8th ofthe breastline. Thus, in coat sizes 38, 40, and 42 inches, thetriangular section approximates 2% inches, 2% inches and 2-% inches,respectively. A man's coat conventionally made from that pattern tends,when worn, to pull across the back between the lower halves of thearmhole seams when the arms are outstretched and then crossed.

Hereafter, the expressions one-eighth BL, one-fourth BL, etc., will beused to designate dimensions actually equal respectively to l/16th ofthe breastline dimension, one-eighth of the breastline V dimension, etc.

4 Claims, 3 Drawing Figures BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of theInvention This invention relates to improvements in mens coats and otherlike garments and, more particularly, to improvements in the armholeconstruction thereof.

2. Description of the Prior Art Coat sizes of 38, 40, 42, etc. havebreastline dimensions of 38 inches, 40 inches, 42 inches, etc. Incutting the pattern for a coat of any such size, the cut edge-of thearmhole is made to bottom against the breastline at a point where theupper end of the underarm dart intersects the breastline. From thisbottom intersection point, the cut edge of the armhole curves laterallyrearward and upward for a short distance, terminating at a point spacedabout one-fourth of an inch horizontally from the cut edge of the rearside margin.

As a result, the upper rear corner of the pattern has a triangularsection defined at its bottom by the breastline and at its oppositesides by the cut edges of the lower rear portion of the armhole and thecorresponding portion of the rear side margin. The upper apex end of thetriangular section is somewhat flat since the top extends horizontallyabout one-fourth of an inch from one side edge to theother.

With the pattern laid out, the cloth for the coat is cut in accordancewith the pattern and the coat is constructed in accordance withconventional practices. Such a coat will have a back portion or shoulderblade strip extending from the lower curved half of one armhole seam(which is spaced from the cut line about inch) transversely across theshoulder blades to the lower curved half of the other armhole seam. Withthe best of tailoring, this shoulder blade strip will be subjected to apull when the wearer of the coat extends his arms forwardly and crossesthem.

SUMMARY OF THEINVENTION Objects of the Invention The principal object ofth'epresent invention is to provide a method of and a means forsubstantially rechange in the tailoring of the coat or any objectionablealteration of its tailored appearance.

Statement of the Invention I have discovered that, when the height ofthe tri- I angular section is increased substantially beyond itsconventional height, the tendency of the finished coat to pull acrossthe shoulder blade strip is substantially reduced. When the triangularsection is high enough, such pull is eliminated. Ordinarily, if theextension is increased to a dimension approximating one-fourth BL minusr inch more or less, the pull on the shoulder blade strip will normallybe eliminated for all practical purposes. This apparently is due to thefact that the curved portion of the armhole cut line, which forms thefront boundary of said extension, shifts laterally forward and thushorizontally lengthens the shoulder blade strip sufficiently to reduceor prevent pull.

The invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing wherein:

FIG. I is an elevational view of the upper portion of the back of a manscoat or jacket, which is made with a right and left pair of allochiralfront panels of the type exemplified by the left front panel shown inFIG. 2;

FIG. 2 is an enlarged front elevational view of the left front panel ofa mans coat, jacket or like construction, which is to be buttonedor'otherwise releasably secured along the center of its front face andwhich embodies the present invention, this view also representing thepattern for the left front panel; and

FIG. 3 is an enlarged fragmentary view of the upper part of thetriangular section shown at the upper right rear corner of FIG. 2.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT One typical construction of amans coat, jacket or like garment, which is to be buttoned or otherwiserelea'sably fastened together along the center of its front face,includes 4 panels comprising: right and left back panels R and L; aright front panel (not shown) except for the fragmentary portion seen inFIG. 2; and a left front panel 1. The right and left front panels areallochiral panels, i.e., they are symmetrically alike but with theirparts reversed in position like the parts of one's right and left hands.The same is true of the right and left back panels.

The present invention relates to an improvement in each of the frontpanels but, since they are allochiral, the invention is primarilydescribed and illustrated only as applied to the left panel I.

The left front panel I has a peripheral cut edge 2 and a V4 inch widemarginal-edge or allowance portion extending between the peripheral cutedge 2 and the peripheral dotted allowance line 3. The 541 inch widemarginal-edge allowance portion includes the following marginal edgeallowance sections, viz: ashoulder section 5; a front neck section orgorge 6, to which the collar section (not shown) will ultimately besewn; a front vertical section 7, the upper part of which includes thelapel; a bottom section 8; lower and upper left side sections 9 and 9A,which ultimately will be sewn to the back panel; and a left sleevearmhole section 10, located between vertical construction lines 11 and12 and above breastline 13 except at the lowermost portion of thearmhole. Actually the margins or outlets of the neck gorge 6 and frontedge 7 are usually slightly wider than inch to permit desired trimmingafter these parts are sewn.

The cut edge 2 of the sleeve annhole section 10 fronts tangentiallyagainst the straight vertical construction line 12 and bottomstangentially against horizontal breastline 13. The bottom of a straightvertical construction line 11 intersects the breastline 13 at a lengthdimensions of 38 inches, 40 inches, 42 inches,

etc. The intersection point 12A (of vertical line 12 with the breastline13) is spaced horizontally from the intersection point 13A (of thebreastline 13 with peripheral cut edge 2 of the left side section 9) adistance equal to one-fourth BL plus about 1 to 1% inches. Assuming thatthe left front panel illustrated is for a size 40 coat, then thebreastline distance between intersection points 12A and 13A is equal to5 inches plus approximately 1 to 1% inches.

The left front panel 1 also has a conventional underarm dart 15 and awaistline l6 spaced approximately 8%. inches below the breastline 13.The waistline 16 has a horizontal dimension equal to the breastlinedimension minus one-eighth BL. Thus, in a size 40 coat, the waistlinedimension equals 40 minus 2% inches or 37 /2 inches. On the left frontpanel alone, the horizontal breastline dimension running from thevertical cut edge 2 of the front vertical section 7 to the vertical cutedge 2 of the rear vertical side section 9 approximates 16.6 inches in asize 40 coat while the corresponding horizontal waistline l6-dimensionis about inch smaller or about 16.1 inches.

In a conventionally cut left front panel 1, the upper apex end of theunderarm dart 15 intersects both the breastline 13 and the cut edge 2 ofsleeve armhole section 10 at one and the same point designated 10A,which is located about the bottom center of the sleeve armhole.

The upper rear corner of the front panel 1 includes a triangular sectionbased on the breastline l3 and extending between the cut edges 2 of rearside marginal section 9- and the adjacent armhole marginal section 10.In a conventionally cut front panel 1, this triangular section .extendsfrom the dart-apex breastlineintersection point 10A horizontallyrearward along the breastline through intersection point 1 1A to thebreastline intersection point 13A with cut edge 2 of the rear sidesection 9, thenceupwardly along cut edge 2 to a horizontal line 18 whichextends from cut edge 2 to the upper end of a downwardly curved dottedline 19 and thence curves concavely downward along curved line 19 backto dart apex point 10A. The height of the conventional triangularsection (or the distance between line 18 and breastline.13) is equal toone-eighth BL or 2% inches in a size 40coat.

With a triangular section one-eighth BL high, a coat, constructed inaccordance with conventional practices, will have a shoulder strip 20,which, as seen in FIG. 1, extends from the lower half of one sleevearmhole seam transversely across the left and right shoulder blades tothe lower half of the corresponding allochiral sleeve-armhole seam inthe right front panel. With the best of tailoring, this shoulder bladestrip 20 will be subjected to a pull and correspondingly placed undertransverse tension when the wearer of the coat extends his armsforwardly and crosses them.

In accordance with my invention, the height of this triangular sectionis increased substantially beyond its conventional height. I have foundthat this substantial increase effects a substantial reduction in thetendency of the finished coat to be transversely tensioned along ashoulder strip corresponding to the strip 20, which, as seen in FIG. 1,extends from one seam line 3 to the other. Where the height of thetriangular section is increased to a sufficient degree, such pull shouldbe entirely eliminated. Ordinarily the height of that section isincreased to a dimension approximating one-fourth of the breastlineminus 1% inch more or less. Thus, in a size 40 coat, the height of thetriangular section is increased about 2 inches from the conventional 2%inches to 4 /2 inches as indicated by horizontal line 18A. This makesthe portion of the cut edge 2, which is common to both the sleevearmhole and the triangular section, move laterally forward from line 19,i.e., move toward the armhole so that the armhole cut edge 2 now extendsfrom dart apex point 10A concavely upwardly along cut edge 2 to theupper inner end of line 18A of the triangular section. As a result, theextension is widened by the distance between the conventional cut edge,which is indicated by line 19, and the new rear armhole cut edge 2,which is spaced laterally forward from line 19. This moves the armholeseam line 3 accordingly which is to say it raises that seam line andmoves it forwardly.

Before passing on, we note that rear side marginal section 9 islengthened as indicated by 9A and that marginal sections 9A and 10 mergeas they approach horizontal line 18A. The present invention makes itpossible to reduce in substantial measure and, for all practicalpurposes, eliminate the shoulder strip pull in a mans coat. In so doing,it does not produce any objectionable change in the tailoring of thecoat or any objectionable alteration of its tailored appearance. Ifanything, its appearance may be enhanced.

While I have limited the description of the invention to a mans coat, itwill be obvious that the invention may be applied to other garmentswhich involve the same shoulder strip pull problem. Furthermore, thisproblem is found not only in mens coats and other like garments for menbut also in womens coats and other like garments for women. The termsmen and women are intended to include boys and girls. It is also foundin so-called knits, the yield of which may render the conventional pullless objectionable.

While I have given the height of the conventional triangular section asbeing one-eighth BL, I have never known it to be higher. On thecontrary, it may often be lower. Also, while (for coat sizes rangingfrom 38 to 42) I prefer to increase the height to a value equaltoone-fourth BL minus /2 inch, it stands to reason that the presentinvention is not restricted thereto. The increase must be substantialenough to effect a substantial reduction in the pull across the shoulderstrip. I have reason to regard an-increase of percent as beingsubstantial. This would raise a conventional 2%, 2% and 2-% inchesheight of size 38, 40 and 42 coats to 3.15, 3.50 and 3.85 inchesrespectively.

The height of the triangular section should not be increased to a pointwhere it provides extra width from shoulder to shoulder above the areaof the shoulder strip pull. Normally it should not be increased abovethe sleeve notch conventionally provided in the adjacent back panel.Subject to those limitations, the conventional height may be increasedas much as 210 percent.

In other words, the height may be increased from I40 to 210 percent (incoat sizes ranging from 38 to 42) or from one-fourth BL minus 1% inchesto one-fourth BL plus three-fourths of an inch. Increases in smaller andlarger coat sizes should be correspondingly smaller and larger but, inany event, sufficient to effect a substantial reduction in the shoulderstrip pull, yet insufficient to provide excess width between theshoulders above the area of the shoulder strip pull.

From the foregoing, it will be appreciated that l have provided: animprovement in the pattern for the front panel of a coat-like garment;an improvement in the front panel itself; and an improvement in acoat-like garment. I

My improvement in the pattern for the front panel of a coat-like garmentrelates to a pattern having vertical front-side and rear-side marginaledges 2 and a horizontal breastline 13 extending from one side edge 2 tothe other and separating the rear edge 2 into an upper edge partextending slightly above the breastline 13 and a lower edge partextending substantially below the breastline, the upper rear corner ofthe pattern having a sleeve hole bottoming at A against the breastline13 with the lower rear portion of the sleeve hole defined by arearwardly and upwardly extending concavely-curved pattern edge,(extending from 10A to 18A). This improvement comprises a triangularsection based on the breastline l3, defined by and between saidconcavely-curved sleeve-hole edge 2 and the upper edge part of therear-side marginal edge 2, and having a horizontal top 18A, a heightfrom the breastline to its top of increased value such that it. issubstantially greater than one-eighth BL and a corresponding increase inits width. I

My improvement in the front panel itself may be described as comprisinga front panel 1 cut in accordance with my improved pattern as describedin the immediately preceding paragraph.

My improvement in a coat-like garment may be described as comprising: apair of allochiral right and left front panels which are described inthe immediately preceding paragraph; a pair of allochiral right and leftback panels R and L; and means for securing said right front panel tosaid right back panel R, said left front panel 1 to said left back panelL and said right back panel R to said left back panel L to form thecorresponding portion of a coat-like garment, and to provide the backthereof with a shoulder strip having an increased length correspondingto the increase in width of the triangular sections on said right andleft front panels. The right and left front panels can, of course, becut from the same pattern and then placed in allochiral arrangementrelative to each other. The allochiral back panels are conventional. Themeans for securing the panels is, conventional. However, when the panelsare conventionally sewn together the shoulder strip 20 will belengthened at each end by a distance corresponding to the spacingbetween line 19 and the adjacent curved armhole edge 2.

Having described my invention, I claim:

1. An improvement in the pattern for the front panel of a coat-likegarment, said pattern having vertical front-side and rearside marginaledges and a horizontal breastline extending from one marginal side edgeto the other and separating the rear-side marginal edge into an uppervertical edge part extending slightly above the breastline and a lowervertical edge part extending substantially below the breastline, theupper rear corner of the pattern having a sleeve hole bottoming againstthe breastline with the lower rear portion of the sleeve hole defined bya rearwardly and upwardly extending concavely-curved pattern edge, saidimprovement comprising:

A. a triangular section 1. based on the breastline,

2. defined by and between said concavely-curved sleeve-hole verticaledge and the upper edge part of the vertical rear-side marginal edge,and

3. having a horizontal top, a height from the breastline to its top ofincreased value such that it is substantially greater than one-eighth BLand a corresponding increase in its width.

2. An improvement in the front panel of a coat-like garment, said panelhaving vertical front-side and rearside marginal edges and a horizontalbreastline extending from one marginal side edge to the other andseparating the vertical rear-side marginal edge into an upper verticaledge part extending slightly above the breastline and a lower verticaledge part extending substantially below the breastline, the upper rearcorner of the panel having a sleeve hole bottoming against thebreastline with the lower rear portion of the sleeve hole defined bya-rearwardly and upwardly extending concavely-curved edge, saidimprovement comprising:

A. a triangular section cut in accordance with the triangular sectionpattern of claim 1. r

3. An improvement in a coat-like garment, compris mg: I

'A. a pair of allochiral right and left front panels according to claim2;

B. a pair of allochiral right and left back panels; and

C. means for securing said right frontpane] to said right back panel,said left front panel to said left back panel and said right back panelto said left back panel 1. to form the correspondingportion of acoat-like garment, and

2. to provide the back thereof with a shoulder strip having an increasedlength corresponding to the increase in width of the triangular sectionson said right and left front panels.

4. In the art of producing a coat-like garment, an improvement in themethod of making a front panel having a triangular section, which isbased on the breastline of the panel, which is defined on opposite sidesby the lower rear curved edge portion of the armhole and thecorresponding rear side edge portion of the panel respectively, whichhas a horizontal top approximating one-fourth of an inch and whichnormally has a height between the breastline and the top next exceedingoneeighth BL, comprising:

A. increasing the height of the triangular section substantially overone-eighth BL and correspondingly increasing the width of said sectionso as to provide for a corresponding increase in the length of theshoulder strip of the final coat-like product.

1. An improvement in the pattern for the front panel of a coatlikegarment, said pattern having vertical front-side and rearside marginaledges and a horizontal breastline extending from one marginal side edgeto the other and separating the rearside marginal edge into an uppervertical edge part extending slightly above the breastline and a lowervertical edge part extending substantially below the breastline, theupper rear corner of the pattern having a sleeve hole bottoming againstthe breastline with the lower rear portion of the sleeve hole defined bya rearwardly and upwardly extending concavely-curved pattern edge, saidimprovement comprising: A. a triangular section
 1. based on thebreastline,
 2. defined by and between said concavely-curved sleeve-holevertical edge and the upper Edge part of the vertical rearside marginaledge, and
 3. having a horizontal top, a height from the breastline toits top of increased value such that it is substantially greater thanone-eighth BL and a corresponding increase in its width.
 2. defined byand between said concavely-curved sleeve-hole vertical edge and theupper Edge part of the vertical rear-side marginal edge, and
 2. toprovide the back thereof with a shoulder strip having an increasedlength corresponding to the increase in width of the triangular sectionson said right and left front panels.
 2. An improvement in the frontpanel of a coat-like garment, said panel having vertical front-side andrear-side marginal edges and a horizontal breastline extending from onemarginal side edge to the other and separating the vertical rear-sidemarginal edge into an upper vertical edge part extending slightly abovethe breastline and a lower vertical edge part extending substantiallybelow the breastline, the upper rear corner of the panel having a sleevehole bottoming against the breastline with the lower rear portion of thesleeve hole defined by a rearwardly and upwardly extendingconcavely-curved edge, said improvement comprising: A. a triangularsection cut in accordance with the triangular section pattern ofclaim
 1. 3. having a horizontal top, a height from the breastline to itstop of increased value such that it is substantially greater thanone-eighth BL and a corresponding increase in its width.
 3. Animprovement in a coat-like garment, comprising: A. a pair of allochiralright and left front panels according to claim 2; B. a pair ofallochiral right and left back panels; and C. means for securing saidright front panel to said right back panel, said left front panel tosaid left back panel and said right back panel to said left back panel4. In the art of producing a coat-like garment, an improvement in themethod of making a front panel having a triangular section, which isbased on the breastline of the panel, which is defined on opposite sidesby the lower rear curved edge portion of the armhole and thecorresponding rear side edge portion of the panel respectively, whichhas a horizontal top approximating one-fourth of an inch and whichnormally has a height between the breastline and the top next exceedingone-eighth BL, comprising: A. increasing the height of the triangularsection substantially over one-eighth BL and correspondingly increasingthe width of said section so as to provide for a corresponding increasein the length of the shoulder strip of the final coat-like product.